Cuisine

My diet in Kabul is extremely predictable with a few radical exceptions. For my main meal, everyday I walk to the campus dining hall with a few faculty and an occasional student. For 25 Afghanis (50 US cents) patrons receive a small paper ticket which is immediately turned over to an aged group of gentlemen who serve up a large pile of pilau (rice with raisins, bits of carrot, and a lot of oil), a small dallop of vegetables (greens or some kidney beans) half a piece of naan and a cup of consume with coriander. At home friends often comment at how fast I eat, but here I struggle to keep up - lunch rarely lasts 15 minutes and we're out of there.
Lunch had been subsidized so that it cost only 5 Afghanis (10 US cents) but the price has steadily risen, and only last week the price rose from 20 Afghanis because the University no longer covers the cost of firewood to cook the meal. A few days ago some faculty and I arrived late for lunch and the doors were closed, so we ambled outside the walled campus to the street to buy 'burgers' from a vendor. These consisted of a small sliver of some soy-based patty, wrapped in a pile of grease-soaked french fries wrapped in a piece of naan and doused in some kind of homemade pickle. Back in the office, the 'burgers' somehow had the effect of making us all slump to one side on the couch so we had to put out an arm for extra support. It took several cups of tea to sit up straight again.
Meanwhile, with the burgeoning ex-pat community, there is a strong incentive to appeal to diverse tastes. Last week I met a friend for dinner at 'La Cantina'. A couple nights ago I had good Korean food, and today I had lunch at a French bistro. These places serve up 'novelty' as much as anything, and cater almost entirely to foreigners. They are advertised by word of mouth and have nondescript entrances. La Cantina lies on a small, dusty street and the entrance is marked only by a small hut full of armed gaurds. Patrons are searched before they enter an open air courtyard full of flowers, Mexican kitsch on the walls and salsa music in the background.
The ex-pat restaurants are an interesting change of pace, but so is the experience of a 'burger' on the street. Today I picked up an advert card for "Pizza Brasil". This might be pushing the envelope, but if I go I'll write a review.

Field Trip

Prof. Kohastani of Forestry and Natural Resources, invited me to join a class trip to visit some areas of interest around Kabul. We visited Kolhe Hashmatkhan, a wetland and sanctuary for migrating birds near the edge of town. A couple decades ago the wetland was much larger, and the Kabul river flowed through the city, and citizens would visit the lake for picnics on days off. But the land around the water source was settled as Kabul became the center of more conflict. Ringed by rugged and stony hills, the sea of green is a a refreshing sight. I have had a bit of trouble with my camera, but I put the satellite image of the wetland to give and idea of the development around the wetland. All around the lake are agricultural fields, houses being built (although this is supposed to be prohibited) and other activities, like washing cars, which are adding increased pressure to the wetland. Above the lake looms Bin-e-Hesar, and ancient, walled fortress.
From the wetland we drove back towards city center, passed Kabul's Olympic stadium to visit Marajon, a looming hill, which used to be covered in trees prior to hostilities. The land is now occupied by AMDC, a national organization which clears land mines and is run by a professor of forestry from Kabul University. The compound has de-mining equipment and a large kennel full of German Shepherds being trained for security and de-mining, but most of the area within is covered in tree saplings and nurseries. The students were given a tour, treated to lunch and were clearly inspired by the work of AMDC. A funny moment occurred as the large bus carrying students was leaving the compound and creeping up the narrow, tree-lined lane. The bus was too big to negotiate a turn, and it looked as it we might take out several 5-6 year old trees. A chaotic scene ensued where the bus-driver was ready to throw it into gear and tear over the trees, but the students jumped off the bus and tried to pull back the trees and direct the driver as he eased back and forth for about 15 minute to avoid the trees.
Next week I start to meet with groups of faculty to hear more about their teaching programs.

Settling in

It seems much longer than a week here in Kabul - maybe because each day I am introduced to so many people and so much information.

The routine at Kabul University is morning classes, lunch and then the halls are mostly quiet until 'night' classes which last from 4-6. This leaves professors with time to chat about how things work in their department, and also with time to help get acquainted with some of the unused resources available for use. The library has many good, donated books in English, but they are not organized or cataloged, and there is no plan in the works to do this, so a couple staff will help get this process started. Making these resources more accessible is a first step.


Each bazaar has its own feel and it's own set of specialty merchandise. For the cheapest mobile phones, I was led to Kotai-Sangi, just down the road from the University. Centered on a round-about, it is a sprawling market seething with hawkers and shoppers. It was so jammed (cars, bicycles and people fight for every inch in the round-about) that it was hard to get a decent photo of the place.

I continue to get to know my neighborhood. There are perpetual soccer matches in the streets. The one in the photo is a block from my guesthouse, and I stopped for a moment to watch. Out of a doorway next to me must be the sister of the one of the players who was completely absorbed in the match.
I was invited on a field trip with the department of natural resources to see a sanctuary for migratory birds outside of town, so I'll have news of this trip next time I post.